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Amid storing food, reading survival books and making other emergency preparations, it's easy to forget about making a plan for your pet. But if a collapse has happened, you want your pet to be taken care of so you can concentrate on other things. Most people assume their pets can just eat human food, but animals have different nutritional needs. And there other considerations besides food. Here are a few items to gather:
Pet food. Start with at least a two-week supply, then build from there. How long it lasts depends on what you get. Your pet food will last a lot longer if you buy the good stuff from a pet store and avoid the imported stuff found at places like Walmart. Most dog and cat food is high in fat which means it will turn rancid after the "best by" date, so for long-term storage consider getting airtight containers and oxygen absorbers. Also, remember that canned food lasts longer than dry food. Hand can opener. You should have one of these for yourself, anyway. Just a reminder. Food and water bowls. It's good to have some extra bowls, especially the collapsible kind that don't take up much space. Several gallons of water. Again, you should have this for yourself, but it wouldn't hurt to set several gallons aside from your regular drinking water. Pet treats and supplements. Make sure you have enough to last as long as the regular food. Waste disposal system. This is particularly important for cats. Make sure you have plenty of litter, newspapers, a scoop, bleach, garbage bags and baking soda (for the smell). Pet medications. Make sure you have enough stocked up to last far beyond your pet's next vet appointment. Dental tools. For pets, the only thing you need is Petzlife spray or gel. This stuff removes tarter and kills gingivitis. Flea and tick treatment. Collars, sprays, and flea & tick shampoo. Grooming supplies. Brush, nail trimmers and other supplies. Pet clothes. Sweaters and boots for extremely cold climates. Carriers/leashes. You might already have these, but an extra one of each can't hurt. Records/documents. Gather all your vet health records and vaccination documents into one folder. Pictures. Keep recent pictures of your pets in your pet survival kit in case they are lost and you need help finding them. Collar. Specifically, a pet survival collar that has your pet's ID, name, address, phone number, license and rabies tag. Instructions. In case you need to give your pets away or have someone else take care of them, make a list of detailed instructions on how to care for each pet. Toys. Keep your pets entertained. I have found that chew toys for dogs and fake mice for cats can keep them busy for hours.
Put these things in a box next to your stored pet food.
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Well groomed dogs are much healthier than those who are not regularly groomed. Matted or knotted hair can lead to yeast infections, periodontal disease can result from neglected teeth, and ear infections are common in dogs who are not groomed as well. The tips in this article will tell you how to groom your dog at home to keep him healthy, clean, and easy to care for.
Before you get started grooming your dog, make sure you have all the supplies that you will need. Gather items for cleaning your dog's eyes and ears, nail trimmers, as well as hair trimmers or scissors, and teeth and mouth cleaning tools. You will also need shampoo, a heavy towel, and tools to brush your dog's fur.
The first step in grooming your dog is to brush him very thoroughly. Be sure to untangle any knots or matted sections of hair because these will be nearly impossible to remove after they're wet. Use a quality dog brush that will free loose hair and dirt and that will distribute the oils thought your dog's coat. If your dog has short hair, brush out his coat with a glove or curry brush. If your dog has longer hair, you may need a durable pin brush or a slicker, or even an undercoat rake. If you find any mats that can't be removed by brushing, use a trimmer to cut it away. Matted hair that is left unattended can allow bacteria to grow on the skin, resulting in a yeast infection.
To save time and effort, you should take care of any trimming before giving your dog a bath. If you will be cutting away any large sections of your dog's hair, it would simply be a waste of time, energy, and shampoo to wash them first!
Next, you should clean your dog's eyes. The amount of maintenance your dog's eyes require will depend on the type of dog you have. Clean and healthy eyes should be clear with no evidence of irritation, discharge, or other complications. Carefully clean away any debris in the corners of the eyes with warm water. Dogs that are light in color or have long hair may need a special product that removes tear stains to clean their coats.
Cleaning your dog's ears is the next step in grooming. Most dogs do not like their ears being cleaned and your dog may be difficult to keep still. Put a small amount of ear cleaning solution on a cotton ball or small cloth and wipe the inside of your dog's ear to remove any wax or dirt that may have accumulated. Be very gentle so you don't irritate the sensitive skin inside the ear and avoid going to deep into the ear to prevent damage. Dab a few drops of rubbing alcohol into his ear to dry any water and to get rid of any ear mites or bacteria, then wipe the ear one last time with a dry cotton ball or swab. If you see anything unusual with your dog's ears, like irritation, swelling, or an odd odor, you should contact your veterinarian because it could be a sign of infection. Clean, healthy ears should not have an odor and should only contain a small amount of wax. Remember to warm any ear cleaning products, alcohol, or medications in room temperature water before using them inside your dog's ears.
Once you've brushed your dog and removed any matted hair and cleaned his eyes and ears, it is time to clean his teeth. Statistics show that only about 20% of dogs have healthy teeth and are not suffering from periodontal disease. A large buildup of tartar on your dog's teeth will be digested over time, causing problems with his liver and kidney. To avoid these problems, you should clean your dog's teeth at least twice a week.
You can brush your dog's teeth using a toothbrush or a piece of gauze over your fingertip. The Pets Tooth Brush is a specially designed glove with soft bristles on both the thumb and the forefinger. Most dogs are not too fond of having their teeth cleaned, but they typically prefer a human touch like this glove rather than a hard toothbrush. Whatever you use, it may take some time to get your dog comfortable with the process. There are also antimicrobial sprays, like the one made by Petzlife, that can easily be sprayed inside your dog's mouth to kill bacteria. Make sure you use teeth and mouth products made specifically for dogs to prevent accidental poisoning or illness.
If your dog will allow you to, you can use a standard dental scraper to gently remove tartar buildup from his teeth. Simply cleaning his mouth and teeth two to three times a week and giving him rawhide or frozen bones to gnaw on should be enough to keep his teeth clean and healthy. Again, remember to only use pet products in your dog's mouth. Human toothpaste is not made to be swallowed and could make your dog sick.
The last step of grooming you should do before bathing your dog is to attend to his nails. Neglected nails can create all sorts of painful problems. Nails that are too long can cause your dog to walk differently or curl into the bottom of his foot, or even lead to skeletal damage. Puppies or miniature breeds can have their nailed trimmed with regular nail clippers, but most dogs require clippers made specifically for dogs. Only trim a very small piece of the nail and repeat as often as necessary. Most dogs need their nails trimmed about once a week, but some breeds can go for a month before needing trimmed again. If you cut the nail too short and it starts to bleed, apply a small amount of corn starch or styptic powder to the area and hold pressure until the bleeding stops.
Now it is time to give your dog a bath. If your dog is nervous or apprehensive in the tub, you may need a special leash designed for use in the bath. These often feature suction cups to keep the dog restrained and your hands free to wash him. Remove your dog's collar before placing him in the tub and use a waterproof collar that won't damage your dog's coat or skin if you need a way to restrain him. Make sure your dog is completely dry before you put his collar back on to prevent sores around his neck. Wait about 12 hours.
It is best to wash your dog with running water, rather than filling the tub and washing him in dirty water, but many dogs are frightened by the sound of water. Work with your dog gently, without force, to get him accustomed to baths and remember to be patient because it may take time. Get your dog completely wet. An attachment hose for your shower head or bath faucet or even a pressurized spray nozzle on your outdoor hose will work well for most dogs. Again, remember to be patient with your dog if he is apprehensive.
You have already cleaned your dog's ears, eyes, and mouth, so you can start washing around his neck and then work your way down over the rest of his body. Use a shampoo appropriate for your dog and dilute it with a small amount of water. Diluting your dog shampoo will make it rinse easier without leaving soap residue behind. Work in small sections, applying a bit of the shampoo to your hand and working it into the dog's fur. If your dog has a thick coat, you can use a curry brush like the one available by Kong Zoom Groom to work the shampoo through. If you are bathing a dog with long hair, smooth the shampoo through the coat rather than brushing it in to avoid knots and unruly tangles. When you have finished washing your dog's body, carefully shampoo his head.
Rinse your dog completely before removing him from the water. Hot spots, or bald patches of skin that are itchy and uncomfortable, are caused by shampoo left in your dog's coat. Rinse him with clean, running water until the water runs clear of both soap and dirt.
Once your dog is rinsed well, you can get him out of the tub and dry him. Use a thick, soft towel to absorb most of the water and allow your dog to shake himself as well. Make sure you dry his feet very well to prevent fungus or bacteria from growing in his paws. If your dog has a short, easy to manage coat, you are finished grooming him.
Dogs with long hair, thick coats, and curly hair require a little more maintenance. If your dog has a lot of hair, you can use a blow dryer to speed up the drying process. Take care not to dry the hair completely with the appliance because you may cause damage to his skin. A brush, along with the blow dryer, can help keep long-haired dogs free of mats and tangles. Dogs with curly hair, like poodles, must be dried completely to keep their coats looking good.
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When your dog has a significant tartar buildup, you take him to the vet to get his teeth professionally cleaned. A visit to the dentist for teeth cleaning works for humans so a visit to the vet for teeth cleaning works for dogs, right? You don't even give it a second thought. You spend several hundred dollars - and you casually risk your dog's life - without ever thinking that there might be a better way to clean his teeth. There is a better way. It's Plaque Attack, a dog dental spray.
"What makes Plaque Attack better than a professional cleaning?" you ask. To be blunt, this spray won't kill your dog; a teeth cleaning might. When you go to the dentist, you lie there obediently, your feet above the level of your head and your mouth wide open. Your dog isn't so obliging. The vet needs to knock your dog out with an anesthetic to clean his teeth, and therein lies the risk. There is a 1 in 233 chance your dog will die under anesthesia. Compare that with 1 human in 10,000 dying under anesthesia, and you'll see the odds aren't all that great. Chances are your dog will be okay, but do you really want to take that chance, especially if your dog has some health issues or is a "senior citizen"?
Plaque Attack dog dental spray is an all-natural spray - no artificial ingredients cooked up in some lab. None of them are harmful to your dog. In fact, they are human grade, and they are all formulated to work together to loosen and remove plaque, prevent infection, and freshen your dog's breath.
Using the spray couldn't be simpler. Simply spray once or twice a day, concentrating the spray on the heaviest tartar buildups. You will notice your dog licking his lips. This helps the spray mix with his saliva to ensure his teeth get fully coated. You should notice a decrease in tartar buildup after a couple of weeks. And your dog's breath will definitely be better!
You can hasten the removal process by gently brushing your dog's teeth just before applying Plaque Attack. This helps loosen plaque, allowing the spray to get under the buildup and work that much quicker.
This dog dental spray isn't going to cost you an arm and a leg either. Cost is around for a bottle that should last about six months. Plaque Attack is safe for your dog, effective, and inexpensive. It's almost a no-brainer that it is a better alternative to a teeth cleaning at the vet's.
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| Price : $54.01PetzLife Gels and Sprays remove plaque and tartar from your pet's teeth, no toothbrush required! Made with all-natural, holistic ingredients, Oral Care Spray safely removes plaque and tartar, reverses oral disease, promotes healthy gums, brightens teeth and kills the bacteria that causes bad breath. When applied in your pet's mouth, the ingredients mix with your pet's saliva and completely coat their teeth and mouth. This process kills harmful bacteria and loosens plaque and tarter. Start your pet on the road to better oral health today. Ingredients: 100% all natural distilled water, grain alcohol, grapefruit seed extract, proprietary blend of herbs and natural oils. You will notice your pet licking it's lips repeatedly. This helps mix the product with your pet's saliva and the natural ingredients will coat all surfaces of your pet's teeth and gums. For best results withhold food and water 30 minutes before and after applications. After 30 days you can reduce to one application per day sprayed directly into your pet's mouth. After 60 days you can reduce to every 2nd or 3rd day. Your pet's plaque and tartar should not return with this recommended usage. You will know it is working when the tartar begins to leave the area between the gum-line and the teeth. When the gum area is tartar free, it is no longer a breeding ground for harmful bacteria that can go directly into your pet's bloodstream. The last area to become tartar free is the middle of your pet's teeth. You will also notice that your pet's breath will be much fresher. Doggy and Kitty breath in most cases is gone! Recommended Dosage: * Pets under 12 lbs: 2 sprays (one on each side of pet's mouth is recommended) * Pets 12-35 lbs: 3 sprays * Pets 30-60 lbs: 4 sprays * Pets 60+ lbs: 5-6 sprays Gel: * Pets under 12 lbs: 1/4 tsp. * Pets 12-35 lbs: 1/3 tsp. * Pets 30-60 lbs: 1/2 tsp. * Pets 60+ lbs: 1 tsp. Made in the USA.
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